With curiosity and precision, Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022) continuously delved into the past to assert her identity and create some of the most original visuals in contemporary fashion. Regarded as one of the most influential figures of the last quarter of the twentieth century, she understood the expressive and activist power of fashion, using clothing as a medium to convey ideas. Westwood’s influence extends beyond attire, reflecting her worldview, defining her era and reshaping future ones, both aesthetically and ideologically. Renowned for her subversive approach to emblematic elements of British culture, such as tartan and tweeds, she reinterpreted traditional tailoring with a deep appreciation for history.

Even during the punk years, alongside Malcolm McLaren, she pioneered a raw, rebellious street fashion that encapsulated the disruptive spirit of the movement. A master in garment construction and technique, the English designer reinterpreted historical costume elements, such as the crinoline (a steel-hooped structure secured with ribbons to create a bell-shaped skirt), the bustle (a half-cage metal frame placed inside the back of skirts to add volume), and the corset (a garment with a structure made from whale-bone to compress the waist and stomach). Through her sculptural and statement-making silhouettes, she continuously engaged in a dialogue with the body, reshaping its form while reflecting on concepts of femininity, gender, sexuality, and temporality.

Spanning from the eighteenth to the twenty-first centuries, it features pieces from the Francisco Capelo collection (MUDE’s Collection), alongside institutional and private collections.

Image:  VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL COUTURE, shoes, Spring/summer 2000. Summertime collection. Silk brocade, leather. MUDE/Coleção Francisco Capelo Collection/MUDE.M.0544